Mortgage Payment Calculator
Work out what a house actually costs you every month — not just the loan payment, but the property tax, insurance, mortgage insurance and dues that arrive with it. Then see how much of your money over the next thirty years goes to the lender rather than into the house, and what changes if you pay a little extra.
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EstimateThis calculator provides estimates for educational and informational purposes only. It does not constitute financial, investment, legal, accounting, or tax advice. Results are based on the assumptions and information entered and may differ materially from actual outcomes. Tax rules and financial regulations can change. Consult an appropriately qualified professional for advice specific to your situation.
Property tax and insurance are held flat at today's amounts. In reality both tend to rise, and a lender's escrow analysis usually changes your payment at least once a year.
- The loan payment is usually only 65%–75% of what you actually send each month. Tax and insurance make up the rest.
- Every figure here comes from the standard amortization formula, which is written out below in full.
- PMI is included automatically when the down payment is under 20%, and removed at the loan-to-value ratio you choose.
- The Advanced tab models extra payments, biweekly schedules, HOA dues and closing costs.
How to use this calculator
In Basic mode you need six numbers, and five of them are on any listing page. The home price and your intended down payment set the loan amount. The interest rate is the note rate a lender quotes you — not the APR, which folds fees into a single figure and will give you a payment that is slightly too high. The loan term is almost always 30 or 15 years. Property tax and insurance are annual figures; the calculator divides them by twelve.
If you do not know the property tax, your county assessor publishes both the assessed value and the millage rate, and most listing sites show the previous year's actual tax bill. Using a percentage of the purchase price is a rough substitute, and a poor one in states where assessments reset on sale.
Advanced mode adds the things that change the answer materially:
- PMI rate and removal point. Private mortgage insurance is charged as an annual percentage of the loan. The calculator applies it monthly while the balance exceeds the loan-to-value ratio you select, then stops.
- HOA dues. Not part of the mortgage, but part of what you must pay to live there, and lenders count it in your debt-to-income ratio.
- Closing costs. Excluded from the monthly payment, included in the total outlay figure.
- Extra payments. A monthly amount, an annual lump sum, or an accelerated biweekly schedule.
Results update as you type. The charts show the payment split, the balance over time with and without your extra payments, and how the principal-versus-interest ratio shifts across the life of the loan.
The formula behind the payment
A fixed-rate mortgage is a level-payment amortizing loan. The payment is the amount that, applied every month at a constant interest rate, reduces the balance to exactly zero on the final payment. The standard annuity formula gives it directly:
M = P × [ i(1 + i)^n ] / [ (1 + i)^n − 1 ] M = monthly principal and interest payment P = loan amount (price − down payment) i = annual interest rate ÷ 12 n = number of monthly payments (years × 12)
On a $360,000 loan at 6.5% over 30 years, i is 0.0054167 and n is 360, which produces a payment of $2,275.44. That number never changes on a fixed-rate loan. What changes is how it is divided.
Each month, the interest due is the outstanding balance multiplied by the monthly rate. Whatever is left of the payment reduces the balance:
interest_this_month = balance × i principal_this_month = M − interest_this_month new_balance = balance − principal_this_month
In month one of that example, interest is $360,000 × 0.0054167 = $1,950 and only $325.44 reduces the balance. By month 180 the split is roughly even. By the final year almost the entire payment is principal. This is not a fee structure that front-loads interest — it is the arithmetic consequence of charging interest on a balance that starts large and ends at zero.
The full monthly outlay adds the escrowed and non-escrowed items:
Total monthly = M
+ annual property tax ÷ 12
+ annual home insurance ÷ 12
+ PMI (while LTV > threshold)
+ HOA dues
+ any extra principal you choose to pay
A worked example
Take a $450,000 home with $90,000 down — a 20% down payment, so no PMI. The loan is $360,000 at 6.5% over 30 years. Property tax is $5,400 a year and insurance is $1,800.
| Component | Monthly | Annual |
|---|---|---|
| Principal & interest | $2,275 | $27,305 |
| Property tax | $450 | $5,400 |
| Home insurance | $150 | $1,800 |
| Total | $2,875 | $34,505 |
Over the full 30 years, total interest is about $459,000 — more than the loan itself. The house costs $450,000; the financing costs slightly more again.
Now change one thing: add $250 a month to principal. The loan clears in roughly 24 years instead of 30, and total interest falls by around $110,000. The $250 is not earning a return in any conventional sense; it is avoiding an interest charge of 6.5% on money that would otherwise have stayed borrowed. Guaranteed, and equivalent to a 6.5% pre-tax return with no market risk.
Change a different thing: put 10% down instead of 20%. The loan becomes $405,000, the payment rises to $2,560, and PMI at 0.5% adds about $169 a month until the balance falls to 80% of the original value — roughly nine years in at the scheduled payment. That is around $18,000 of PMI paid for the privilege of buying nine years earlier with less cash. Whether that is worth it depends entirely on what happens to prices in the meantime, which nobody knows.
Why your real payment changes even on a fixed-rate loan
A common surprise for first-time buyers: the payment goes up, on a loan that was supposed to be fixed. The interest rate has not changed. The escrow account has.
Most lenders collect property tax and insurance monthly and pay the bills on your behalf. Once a year they run an escrow analysis: they compare what they collected against what the bills actually were, and adjust. If your county raised the assessment, or your insurer raised the premium — which many have, substantially, in areas exposed to storms and wildfire — your monthly payment rises to match, and you may owe a shortage from the year just gone.
This calculator holds tax and insurance flat, because projecting them is guesswork. Treat the figure it produces as a starting point, and expect the tax-and-insurance portion to grow over time. On a 30-year horizon that growth can be substantial, and it is the part of your housing cost you have the least control over.
Assumptions and limitations
Being clear about what a model does not do is more useful than adding features to it.
- The rate never changes. This models a fixed-rate loan. An adjustable-rate mortgage behaves entirely differently after its fixed period ends.
- Tax and insurance stay flat. They will not. See above.
- PMI removal is by loan-to-value on the original price. Federal law requires automatic termination at 78% of the original value on most loans, and allows you to request removal at 80%. Some lenders will use a new appraisal if the home has appreciated; some will not. FHA loans follow different rules and often carry mortgage insurance for the life of the loan.
- Extra payments are assumed to reach principal immediately. Some servicers hold extra money as a prepaid instalment instead. Instruct them in writing, on every payment.
- No maintenance, utilities or furnishing costs. A common planning figure for maintenance is 1% of the home's value a year, which on a $450,000 house is $375 a month that this calculator does not show.
- No tax treatment of mortgage interest. Since the standard deduction was raised, most households receive no separate tax benefit from mortgage interest, because their total itemised deductions do not exceed it. The Rent vs. Buy calculator models that properly if you do itemise.
Common mistakes
Budgeting on principal and interest alone. The most frequent error, and the most expensive. A $2,275 loan payment is a $2,875 housing payment before a single repair.
Using the APR as the interest rate. APR includes fees amortised over the loan term. It is designed for comparing offers, not for calculating a payment. Using it here overstates your payment slightly.
Assuming a 15-year loan is always better. It carries a lower rate and far less total interest, but a much higher payment. A 30-year loan with voluntary extra payments gives you nearly the same outcome with the option to stop paying extra in a bad month. That flexibility has real value, and the rate difference is the price of it.
Treating the maximum you are approved for as a budget. Lenders underwrite on gross income and on ratios that ignore childcare, retirement contributions, commuting and everything else. The Home Affordability calculator lets you set your own comfort level rather than the lender's maximum.
Ignoring how long you will stay. Buying and selling costs roughly 8%–10% of the price combined. On a three-year stay that is a substantial hurdle for appreciation to clear before ownership beats renting.
Frequently asked questions
Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance — the four components of a typical escrowed mortgage payment. Principal reduces the loan balance, interest is the lender's charge, and taxes and insurance are collected monthly by the servicer and paid on your behalf when the bills fall due. PMI and HOA dues are often added, giving what some lenders call PITIA.
Because interest is charged on the outstanding balance, and the balance is at its largest at the start. On a $360,000 loan at 6.5%, the first month's interest alone is $1,950. As the balance falls, the interest portion falls with it and the principal portion grows. Nothing is being front-loaded artificially — it is the arithmetic of a level payment against a shrinking balance.
That depends on your other debts, your down payment, current rates and how much of your income you are willing to commit to housing. A long-standing guideline is 28% of gross income on housing and 36% on total debt, but those are rules of thumb rather than rules. The Home Affordability calculator works it out from your own numbers and lets you set the ratios yourself.
Paying down a mortgage is equivalent to a guaranteed, risk-free return equal to your interest rate, before considering tax. At 6.5% that is a strong guaranteed return. Whether it beats investing the same money depends on what you would expect to earn elsewhere, how much risk you would accept, and your tax position. Two things usually come first, though: clearing higher-rate debt, and holding an emergency reserve — because money put into a mortgage is very hard to get back out.
On most conventional loans, federal law requires the servicer to terminate PMI automatically when the balance reaches 78% of the original value, and to cancel it on your written request at 80%, provided you are current on payments. Some lenders will also accept a new appraisal if the home has appreciated. FHA loans are different: depending on the loan and the down payment, mortgage insurance can last for the entire term, and removing it may require refinancing into a conventional loan.
An accelerated biweekly schedule means 26 half-payments a year, which is 13 monthly payments rather than 12. The saving comes entirely from that one extra payment, not from the biweekly frequency itself. You can get the identical result by dividing one monthly payment by twelve and adding that to each payment. Before signing up for a paid biweekly service, check whether your servicer applies the payments immediately or holds them until a full instalment accumulates — if they hold them, the benefit disappears.
It is a genuine trade-off rather than a mistake. A smaller down payment means PMI, a larger loan and a higher payment, but it also means buying sooner and keeping more cash. Whether it works out depends on what house prices do while you would otherwise have been saving — which is unknowable. Model both in this calculator and look at the total cost of each, then decide with the numbers in front of you rather than on a rule.